Bistecca alla Fiorentina

Ingredients

• 1 very thick T-bone or porterhouse steak, 1.2 kg (2⅔ lb) and 4–5 cm (1½–2 in) thick
• 2 tsp coarse sea salt, plus flaky salt to finish
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 2 tbsp good extra-virgin olive oil, plus more to serve
• 1 lemon, cut into wedges
• Rosemary sprig (optional)

Steps

1. Take the steak out of the fridge a full hour before cooking, so the centre is not cold. Do not salt it yet.
2. Light a charcoal grill with a deep bed of coals, ideally oak or other hardwood, and let them burn until covered in white ash, 25–30 minutes. You want a fierce heat, with your hand unable to stay over the grate for more than 2 seconds.
3. Lay the steak on the grate and cook without moving it for 4–5 minutes, until deeply browned and releasing easily.
4. Turn it and cook the second side for 4–5 minutes. Use tongs to stand the steak on its bone side for 3 minutes, which cooks the meat near the bone.
5. Season both sides with the coarse salt now, plus a little pepper. Salting at the end keeps the crust dry.
6. Check the temperature beside the bone: 48–50°C (118–122°F) for the traditional rare. Carryover will take it to about 54°C (130°F).
7. Rest the steak on a warm board for 8–10 minutes. Cut the meat away from the bone in one piece, then slice the strip and tenderloin against the grain into 1.5 cm (½ in) slices.
8. Drizzle with olive oil, add flaky salt and serve with lemon wedges.

Notes

• Doneness: in Florence it is served rare to medium-rare; if you want it more done, cook the sides 2 minutes longer.
• Sharing: this is a steak for two or three, with the bone left on the table for gnawing.
• Serving: white cannellini beans dressed with oil and sage, and roasted potatoes with rosemary.
• Chef's touch: spoon the juices from the resting board over the sliced meat with the olive oil; they carry the seasoning back onto every slice.